The moment I felt icy Arctic splashes on my back and received a playful embrace from a Norse sea god marked my welcome into the Arctic Explorer’s Club as our Havila Voyages ship glided past the Arctic Circle.
For many seasoned sailors, crossing this invisible line is a significant achievement. Onboard the Pollux, our deck transformed into a lively celebration, featuring the sailor’s cherished drink known as black magic. This warm concoction not only invigorates the spirit but also lifts the mood after a day at sea.
This crossing was just one notable highlight of my adventurous seven-day voyage along Norway’s stunning fjords, stretching from Bergen to Kirkenes near the border with Russia.
Feasting on delectable local seafood, gliding silently via battery power, and soaking in breathtaking vistas beneath the glow of the midnight sun contributed to the overall magic of the experience. Adventurous ship tours introduced us to captivating puffins, majestic reindeer, and the rich culture of Norway’s Indigenous Sami people.
While numerous cruise lines claim Norway on their itineraries, Havila’s four vessels distinguish themselves by exclusively visiting Norwegian ports and accommodating no more than 640 passengers. This intimate size allows them to navigate the intricate maze of 1,000 fjords and 320,000 islands.
The Nature and Biodiversity Conservation Union, Germany’s oldest environmental association, recognizes Havila’s ships as some of the most eco-friendly vessels globally. Powered by a combination of liquefied natural gas and battery energy, they achieve a 35% decrease in carbon emissions.
Havila, a family-run enterprise, began operations in 2021 after Norway opened its coastal route to competition, disrupting Hurtigruten’s previous dominance.
Passengers on Havila Voyages’ Pollux get a close look at one of Norway’s largest bird sanctuaries, in the North Cape. Photo Credit: Barbara Redding
Simple pleasures
A journey with Havila feels like a blend of ferry ride and expedition cruise. The ships traverse a century-old coastal route, docking at over 30 ports year-round to deliver mail, goods, and passengers. Travelers can join for shorter segments or opt for a complete 13-day round trip from Bergen to Kirkenes.
Simplicity defines Havila’s charm: nature is the focal point. With no casinos or Broadway shows, passengers wave at passing fishing boats and occupy deck chairs to marvel at mountains that rise abruptly from the sea.
My sister and I embarked the Pollux in Bergen, known as the gateway to the fjords. The ship’s sleek Nordic design made an impactful first impression. Tasteful interior spaces feature soothing gray and blue tones, mirroring the sea and sky, punctuated with Norwegian art for warmth and vibrancy.
Life onboard radiates relaxation and casualness. Meals highlight locally sourced cuisine served a la carte. The only buffet is available at breakfast, where guests can also order various options. I delighted in everything seafood, from fresh salmon and cod to broiled scallops and open-faced shrimp sandwiches.
While the majority of the crew members hail from Norway, they are fluent in English and German and readily share their cultural heritage.
Though only about a dozen of the 300 passengers aboard were from the U.S., interest among North Americans is on the rise. The representation from the U.S. and Canada has surged from 3% in 2022 to 12% in 2025, according to Lasse Vangstein, Havila’s chief communications and sustainability officer.
It didn’t take long for my sister and me to realize the allure of sailing close to shore. Havila’s ships afford an intimate glimpse into Norway’s rugged coastline. From the deck or through the lounge’s expansive windows, we admired the ever-changing scenes of steep cliffs, charming fishing villages, and picturesque lighthouses.
Equally impressive was Havila’s commitment to protecting the environment. As we entered the delicate Geiranger Fjord, the Pollux seamlessly switched to battery mode. Emission-free and silent, we glided into the UNESCO-designated fjord, captivated by the thundering sound of Seven Sisters Falls cascading into the sea.
Our seaview superior cabin proved to be compact yet thoughtfully arranged, featuring spacious windows that framed fjord views perfectly. Blackout curtains helped combat the continuous daylight following our Arctic Circle crossing. During mid-June through August, parts of northern Norway enjoy around-the-clock sunlight.
Over half of Pollux’s 179 cabins offer sea views with queen or twin bed options; 24 suites provide added space, balconies, and fireplaces, while two boast whirlpool baths on the balcony. Most cabins graciously accommodate up to four guests.
Going ashore
Some port calls only lasted 10 minutes, just enough time to drop off or pick up freight. Others were more leisurely, allowing for independent exploration or guided excursions. My sister and I opted for self-guided tours in Trondheim and Tromso but joined organized trips to more remote locations.
The expedition director, Magne Skjerdal, enriched our experience with daily updates on port stops, excursions, Viking legends, and lessons in the Norwegian language.
One of our standout tours provided an in-depth look into the stunning Geiranger Fjord. Here, we explored a cultural center to understand how glaciers sculpted the fjord’s landscape. After descending 327 steps beside a roaring waterfall, a bus transported us to a stunning cliff-top view.
In another excursion, we delved into the history of cod fishing around the Lofoten islands, reflecting on its role in shaping Norway. Our visit to the Lofoten Museum recounted the fierce conditions faced by those who once navigated Arctic storms in small boats.
A thrilling boat ride took us to the North Cape Bird Sanctuary, home to one of Norway’s largest seabird colonies. We spotted puffins, sea eagles, and seals across the rocky outcropping in the frigid Barents Sea.
Seeing reindeer moving across the tundra during our Sami Cultural Tour was equally exhilarating. Gathered around a fire in a traditional turf hut, an elder from Davvi Siida village captivated us with stories about Sami nomadic life. After sharing a haunting joik—an ancient folk song—the moment lingered long after we departed.
Excursion options fluctuate based on seasons and weather conditions. Summer offerings include hiking, biking, and cultural explorations; while winter welcomes activities like northern lights viewing, dog sledding, and snowmobiling.
Beyond daily onboard briefings, Skjerdal introduced us to Njord, the Norse sea god, during our Arctic Circle celebration on deck.
Dressed in a heavy beard and wrapped in a cape, a crew member disguised as Njord performed an ice baptism for first-timers, adding a blend of myth and playfulness to our welcome celebration. This lighthearted ritual marked our entrance into the wonders of the Arctic.
By the time we reached Kirkenes, I found myself wishing I had booked the round-trip. My Havila cruise offered a deep dive into the captivating beauty, flavors, and rich legends of coastal Norway. Without a doubt, there remains so much left to explore.
