My fascination with the Cinque Terre began 12 years ago during an event in Genoa. The picturesque coastline has always captivated my imagination, yet I never had the chance to explore it fully.
The Liguria region of Italy is renowned for its stunning architecture, delectable pesto pasta, and heavenly cheese focaccia—three of my absolute favorites. However, nothing grabs the attention quite like the breathtaking Cinque Terre.
For those who are not familiar, the Cinque Terre consists of five vibrant seaside villages that cling to the rugged Italian Riviera coastline. This area is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a haven for hikers, who can traverse scenic trails that connect the villages.
If you’re short on time or traveling with little ones, you can easily hop on a train between the villages. While some visitors manage to see them all in one day, we found that three nights and two full days gave us plenty of time to explore without feeling hurried.
If you’re thinking about taking your children to Cinque Terre, here’s the itinerary we followed during the May half-term break.
Cinque Terre with Kids – 2-Day Itinerary
Day 1
On our first day, we purchased the Cinque Terre train card, which allows you to hop on and off at as many towns as you like between Levanto and La Spezia. We arrived at the station around 9:30 AM, only to miss our first train and wait 30 minutes for the next one. I must say, the trains are impressive—clean, fast, and efficient, with three levels, ensuring we always found a seat.
We decided to start our adventure at the furthest village, Riomaggiore, making our way back. After Riomaggiore, we stopped in Manarola for lunch, then visited Vernazza for gelato and a quick paddle. By 4:30 PM, we were back at our Airbnb in Levanto, relaxing with prosecco and a card game on the balcony.
Each village charmed me in its own way, with unique architecture, landscapes, and stunning viewpoints. Here are my top tips for each stop:
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore has the smallest harbor, so it can get crowded by the water. I found an excellent vantage point from the piazza above the train station exit—fewer tourists tend to venture up there!
If you’re feeling peckish, the fish and chips in a cone at Tutti Fritti come highly recommended.
While we were there, we noticed people gearing up for kayak tours, which looked incredible if you have the time and ability. The kayak tour from Monterosso to Vernazza is particularly well-reviewed.
Manarola
Manarola captivated me with its easy waterfront walk to a stunning viewpoint. We had lunch at Nessun Dorma, perched on a terrace with breathtaking views. The menu is small, featuring delicious bruschetta and platters, making it incredibly popular.
To avoid long queues, we downloaded their app before arriving in Italy to secure a virtual spot in the line. When you approach the restaurant, be sure to stand close as they quickly call out numbers.
If you’re in the mood for something heartier, consider reserving at La Regina di Manarola, where you can indulge in pizzas, pastas, and desserts while enjoying views of the colorful houses.
Vernazza
Vernazza is among the more child-friendly town options in Cinque Terre, featuring a step-free path from the train station and a cozy sandy beach. If you or your kids enjoyed Disney’s Luca, they might see similarities to Portorosso here.
A beautiful viewpoint of Vernazza awaits from the hiking path to Monterosso. Note that this trail incurs a fee; you’ll need to pay or present your Cinque Terre train pass, which includes access to the hiking paths. Remember to wear appropriate shoes for trekking.
I initially wanted to hike up for a better view, but our son was eager to paddle and enjoy gelato, and I couldn’t blame him for that! Something to keep in mind for our next visit.
After visiting Vernazza, we headed back to Levanto to unwind. Surprisingly, Cinque Terre wasn’t as crowded as I anticipated for the May half-term; we moved around easily and checked everything off our list without hassle. However, getting into and out of train stations could be tricky during peak season.
Returning to Levanto, we had a takeaway of the most delectable focaccia and pizzas from Focacceria Domè. That meal will undoubtedly remain one of my all-time favorites in Italy.
Day 2
Monterosso
For our second day, we opted to stay in Monterosso, known for the largest beachfront among the Cinque Terre villages. To add a twist, we took the ferry from Levanto as the pier was conveniently close to our apartment, offering scenic views of the coastline without the cost of a private boat tour.
If we had visited during warmer months, I would have loved a sunset cruise, but in May, the chill on the water was evident—even Miles wore a towel on the ferry!
The ferry departs Levanto at 9 AM, 10 AM, and 1:40 PM; it cost us 12 euros for adults and 5 euros for kids. Although we missed the 9 AM ferry due to a coffee stop in Levanto, don’t arrive too late to buy tickets as the queues can become quite long.
We boarded the ferry at 10 AM and reached Monterosso by 10:30. The ferry docks near the quieter old town, where we began by relaxing on the small beach before traversing the tunnel by the train station that leads to the longer shore at Monterosso al Mare.
Monterosso is gorgeous, with its vibrant umbrellas and turquoise sea. However, my son was initially disheartened by the stony beaches, as we had just come from sandy Levanto. Nevertheless, he quickly made friends with other children building castles from stones, and we discovered two playgrounds to explore after lunch.
We relished a Ligurian specialty of pesto pasta while dining waterfront. Although I can’t recall the restaurant’s name, I’ve learned that Cantina di Miky comes highly recommended.
We hopped back on the train to Levanto, enjoying downtime at our Airbnb before heading to dinner in the area.
You might be wondering why we didn’t explore all five towns on this trip. Well, we decided to skip Corniglia, the only village without direct access to the water, which also has a reputation for steep steps coming from the train station. We wanted to savor quality family time rather than rush through every possible experience. No regrets there.
Where to Stay in Cinque Terre with Kids
Initially, I booked our stay in Riomaggiore, but due to parking issues, I changed our plans and secured a fantastic apartment in Levanto—a decision I now consider the best choice of the trip.
The Portovecchio Apartments, nestled in a beautiful historic building in Levanto, feature six self-contained studios surrounded by lovely gardens, accommodating between 2 to 6 guests.
We stayed in Totano, a one-bedroom apartment perfect for four. Though compact, the apartment was well-kept, and the private terrace offered breathtaking views of Levanto’s medieval church and castle—an absolute gem after a busy day of exploration.
This apartment boasts a prime location for families. You are just minutes from the beach, a playground, supermarkets, and charming, reasonably priced eateries (don’t miss out on that focacceria!). You can find everything you need within easy walking distance.
While Levanto attracts tourists, it retains a more relaxed atmosphere compared to Cinque Terre. Here, you’ll see just as many locals enjoying the parks and restaurants as visitors.
Find more details about our lovely Airbnb and check out our favorite stays in Europe.
Is Cinque Terre Family-Friendly?
Our five-year-old loved this trip as much as we did, making friends everywhere we went. At this age, he was able to enjoy the experience fully, and most families we encountered had children aged four and older with them.
I spotted a few families with strollers, but even though we didn’t hike between villages, we easily racked up 17k-20k steps daily, which could tire younger children—and their parents!
Surprisingly, Miles trekked around without any complaints. He’s a fountain of energy who has grown used to hiking in hilltop towns. He was always ahead of us, playfully skipping and eager to return to the park after dinner!
In hindsight, I wish we had attempted at least one of the trails connecting the villages, but I struggled to find reliable information on suitable paths for young children, and we hadn’t packed hiking boots to comply with the footwear guidelines.
However, I was delighted by how many playgrounds we discovered and how many restaurants had kid-friendly menus—though with so much pizza and pasta available, that’s hardly a concern.
Check out our adventures in Puglia with a toddler.
How to Get to Cinque Terre
We flew from London Stansted to Genoa with Ryanair, one of the most economical routes to the Cinque Terre.
From Genoa, you have the option to take a train to Cinque Terre or rent a car, which we chose since we were heading to Tuscany afterward. We flew back to London Stansted from Florence using Avios points.
We always utilize Discover Cars for car rental deals, and we’ve never experienced issues.
The drive from Genoa to Levanto takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes. We stopped in Portofino for lunch along the way, and both Santa Margherita and Rapallo are lovely towns to visit on the route.
Where to Buy the Cinque Terre Train Pass
You can purchase the Cinque Terre rail card at any train station in Cinque Terre, Levanto, or La Spezia. It is also available online at the Cinque Terre National Park website, which is a great way to avoid queues.
The rail card includes unlimited travel between La Spezia and Levanto and access to chargeable hiking paths.
If you plan to take the train, note the card has a three-tier price structure for low, medium, and high season days (red, yellow, and green).
Traveling on a ‘green’ weekday in March, April, May, or October can save you a sizeable amount compared to ‘red’ weekend pricing.
Being the organized planner I am, I booked our train card online in advance but inadvertently selected a ‘red’ travel day. It cost us 86 euros for two adults and one child, while the next day’s pass would have been only 51 euros.
Looking back, we should have swapped our plans and purchased the train pass on a cheaper day while using single tickets over the weekend.
To avoid my earlier mistake, check the Cinque Terre rail card pricing categories before organizing your trip. You’ll find the calendar for 2024 with all price categories available. Some months are mixed, while others are entirely ‘red’.
If you can’t escape a ‘red’ travel day, it may still be cheaper to buy single tickets based on how many towns you plan to visit.
