Autumn unveils a quieter side of Italy’s Lake Garda and Lake Como, perfect for savoring the zest of life.
In the quaint town of Gargnano, we explored a remarkable 13th-century convent established by St. Francis of Assisi. Here, Franciscan friars initiated the cultivation of lemons, which transformed this area into the Riviera dei Limoni.
Guided by Merlin, a passionate local, we hiked to the remnants of masonry greenhouses known as limonaie. This delightful area once boasted an annual lemon harvest of 20 million, fostering incredible wealth and a vibrant local culture.
Merlin is part of an essential agricultural cooperative dedicated to safeguarding Lake Garda’s citrus, olive groves, vineyards, and laurel stands. They encourage tourism that respects local traditions and promotes sustainable practices.
At the cooperative’s shop, Terre & Sapori, we indulged in tastings of various citrus jams, herb liqueurs, and delightful compotes. As we strolled along the waterfront promenade in nearby Salo, citrus trees heavy with sunlit fruit lined our path.
Historical figures like D.H. Lawrence and Benito Mussolini once graced Gargnano, showcasing its allure across different circles. The town is home to Villa Bettoni, often referred to as Little Versailles, where wealth derived from lemons built architectural wonders.
Luxuriate at Lefay Resort & Spa
Perched in the hills above Gargnano, Lefay Resort & Spa is enveloped by 27 acres of olive groves and tranquil terraces. A proud member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts, Lefay offers a sanctuary for relaxation and rejuvenation. The outdoor infinity pool joins a spa featuring varied saunas, serene relaxation areas, and several pools and whirlpools.
Grounded in holistic wellness, Lefay’s restaurant, Gramen, led by a Michelin-starred chef, celebrates the Mediterranean diet through a Vital Gourmet program that uses seasonal ingredients, local citrus, and extra-virgin olive oil.
At Lefay, maintaining a relaxed vibe encourages guests to explore the grounds in their robes, enhancing a keen sense of tranquility. This atmosphere translates to restorative sleep in the elegantly designed rooms and suites, each with stunning views of the surrounding park and the lake.
D.H. Lawrence once captured the essence of the area: “Everything is too nice for words and not a bit touristy.”
A breathtaking way to appreciate Lake Garda’s beauty is from a customized 1017 Frauscher Lido speedboat courtesy of Lefay. Nearby, the Museo della Carta celebrates medieval paper production. A bit further, in Gardone Riviera, the Vittoriale degli Italiani stands as a tribute to poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.
The bar at Passalacqua, which is a Legend member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts. Photo Credit: Passalacqua
Discover Passalacqua on Lake Como
Lake Garda has long been overshadowed by its glamorous neighbor, Lake Como. Located just an hour from Milan, Lake Como boasts a wealth of historical neoclassical villas.
Many visitors to Villa del Balbianello experience a sense of familiarity, as the villa has appeared in films like “Star Wars: Episode II — Attack of the Clones.” Once home to Guido Monzino, the first Italian to summit Mount Everest, this stunning location pays homage to Monzino’s legendary explorations, maintained by the National Trust of Italy.
In the charming village of Moltrasio, the Italian tradition of la villeggiatura thrives at Passalacqua. Families annually migrate from urban life to this scenic retreat, embodying the concept of dolce far niente, or “sweet idleness.”
Originally constructed in the 18th century by Count Lucini-Passalacqua, and later owned by the esteemed composer Vincenzo Bellini, Passalacqua features 24 luxurious rooms surrounded by expansive terraced gardens, fountains, and a labyrinth of hidden tunnels leading to a private dock.
As a Legend member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts, Passalacqua underwent a meticulous three-year renovation, reopening in 2022.
Wandering through the lavishly appointed spaces, one can easily recall the days when luminaries like Napoleon Bonaparte and Winston Churchill experienced the charm of vivere Italiano.
The entry gate to Villa Sola Cabiati, where Grand Hotel Tremezzo guests can arrange for private dinners. Photo Credit: Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Experience Grand Hotel Tremezzo
Navigating north along the lake leads to Tremezzo, where visitors discover the 20-acre gardens of the 18th-century Villa Carlotta. The villa showcases exquisite sculptures by Canova and captivating paintings by Hayez, all while the top-floor gallery boasts panoramic lake views.
One of the most picturesque destinations along Lake Como, Tremezzo is home to the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, built in 1910 amidst the exotic gardens of Villa Carlotta. Guests enjoy lakefront vistas of the Bellagio peninsula, along with access to the hotel’s lido and two Venetian motor launches for captivating lake explorations.
The beautifully furnished rooms and suites at Grand Hotel Tremezzo feature custom-made mirrored furniture that cleverly conceal minibars, while vintage-style steamer trunks cleverly hide televisions.
Within the hotel’s wine cellar, the enoteca L’escale offers tableside entertainment with its exquisite cacio e pepe complemented by black truffles. Guests may also arrange private dinners at Villa Sola Cabiati, surrounded by priceless 18th-century frescoes and masterpieces.
Risotto with gold and saffron served at La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Photo Credit: Grand Hotel Tremezzo
At the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, the fine dining experience at La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi is renowned, honoring the Italian chef who changed culinary history. Signature dishes like saffron risotto with gold leaf and poached lobster on sweet pepper sauce are unforgettable. I savored every bite.
The following day, I hiked to the summit of the hotel’s belvedere, marveled at a 300-year-old olive tree, and took in the breathtaking view of the azure lake, serenaded by the sweet sounds of nature.
Many artists have attempted to capture the enchanting qualities of these lakes. Yet, experiencing the beauty in person is unmatched.
