Embarking on a 100-mile cycling adventure along Chile’s Carretera Austral, I found myself navigating a path I had never imagined I would choose. As a city girl accustomed to the allure of Gel-X nails and groomed hair and lashes, this rugged, partly gravel road through Patagonia captivated me in ways I couldn’t explain.
Rising Trend of Women in Cycling
The world of cycling is undergoing a remarkable transformation, particularly among women. Participation rates are soaring, with Strava reporting an impressive 11% annual increase in female cyclists. The soaring viewership of events such as the 2025 Tour de France Femmes highlights this growing visibility. Emerging trends such as gravel riding and bikepacking are making once-remote locales like Patagonia increasingly accessible, thanks to expanded flight routes and airport upgrades.
Reality Check of the Ride
However, nothing could prepare me for the challenges awaiting on that journey. Our guides, Claudia Huepe and co-founder Fernando Padilla from Cicloaustral, initially contemplated canceling the trip due to inclement weather affecting Cerro Castillo National Park. This meant reshaping our itinerary at the last moment, shifting the hardest climb up Cerro Castillo Pass to our first day.
The Grueling Ascent
The climb proved to be an arduous test of endurance. I had opted for an e-bike, knowing that without it, I would struggle to make the ascent. Even with assistance, the ride felt punishing as strong wind gusts threatened to unbalance me and send my bike skidding. At that moment, I questioned my decision, wondering what I had signed up for.
The Devil’s Slope
The day concluded with a harrowing descent known as Cuesta del Diablo, or the Devil’s Slope. I gripped the brakes tightly, acutely aware that any lapse in focus could spell disaster. It was equally exhilarating and frightening.
An Unexpected Respite
By the end of our first day—after six grueling hours in the saddle—my legs trembled with fatigue. The discomfort set in as I settled down to a hearty Chilean meal, serving as a comforting reward for my labors. When we learned that the next day’s ride had been canceled due to weather conditions and replaced with a short hike to view ancient rock paintings, a wave of relief washed over several novice riders like myself.
The Beauty and solitude of Patagonia
Patagonia is undeniably one of the most breathtaking yet challenging cycling destinations on the planet, with much of the terrain being rugged gravel. Compared to the more seasoned cyclists at the front, I found myself often alone, pedaling through vast, glacial landscapes while passing grazing horses and greeting gauchos.
Digital Detox
Perhaps the most jarring aspect was the disconnection from technology; Wi-Fi was non-existent during the day, with only faint signals at night. Initially unsettling, I soon recognized this digital detox as a much-needed form of therapy. The solitude allowed me to appreciate the serenity of the ride, encouraging a meditative state and reminding me that not every moment needs to be documented.
Building Camaraderie
The camaraderie among our international group of ten riders added another layer to this experience. Each evening, after long days of biking, we came together to share stories around the dinner table. Initially, I felt intimidated by my fellow cyclists, especially as most opted for traditional mountain bikes, charging ahead with ease. However, over time, these initial anxieties faded.
A Memorable Evening
One of the most unforgettable evenings took place at a gaucho’s home, where we enjoyed cordero al palo (spit-roasted lamb) while local musicians serenaded us with their melodies. The atmosphere was filled with laughter, dancing, and the joyful camaraderie that comes from shared challenges and experiences.
Reflections on Growth
On our final night at the lakeside Pared Sur Camp, we gathered for a last dinner and shared our favorite moments from the journey. One rider humorously recalled his initial impression of me on the first day, assuming I was out of my depth. The laughter that followed solidified a sense of belonging; I had exceeded my own expectations without ever giving up.
The Transformative Journey
Throughout the journey, I pedaled through challenging weather conditions, with sideways rain and gusty winds that occasionally whipped my eyelash extensions into my face. By the end of the adventure, I managed to keep in pace with more experienced cyclists, all while soaking in the stunning views of glaciers and lush rainforests.
Rediscovery of Passion
As I transitioned from uncertainty to confidence along the breathtaking routes between Cerro Castillo and the Marble Caves, I fell in love—not just with cycling, but with the person I had become. This journey reaffirmed my love for exploration, and I can’t wait for the next adventure to unfold.
